Process for making a turnover at a fabric edge or the like,and also ancillary means for carrying out the process



June 24, 1969 w. AUGUSTIN PROCESS FOR MAKING A TURNOVER AT A FABRIC ED OR THE LIKE, AND ALSO ANCILLARY MEANS FOR CARRYING OUT THE PROCESS Filed April 20, 196'?` United States Patent G U.S. Cl. 2-247 7 Claims I ABSTRACT F THE DISCLOSURE A method of reinforcing a pocket opening and mounting a pocket thereon using a strip of synthetic material with preformed cuts therein, adhering, said strip to the garment fabric, cutting the fabric, turning the formed flaps on the back of the fabric and sewing the pocket edges to the flaps; and the reinforcing strip therefor.

The invention relates to a process for making a turnover at a fabric edge or the like, particularly on pockets of items of clothing in which the material is folded over at the turnover line and then hemmed or sewed up. The invention likewise relates to ancillary means for carrying out the process.

When sewing pockets in items of clothing, such as trousers, jackets, etc., the exact making of the fabric turnover on the fabric edges on both sides of the separating cut forming the pocket opening, particularly in heavy woollen materials, occasionally -gives rise to difiiculties. It is therefore frequently necessary to tack up the pockets at the turnover lines before the prefabricated pocket lining is sewed in.

The invention poses the problem of removing these diiiculties.

For this purpose it is proposed, according to the invention, to -back the fabric adhesively at the turnover position with a thin stitfening strip in which the turnover line of the material is marked out by a line of weakness, prefera-bly a separating cut. On the ground of the different stilfness which the material shows at the places backed by the stiffening strips and those places which lie below the line of weakness or the separating cut, a soft woollen material may also be folded over exactly at the line of the separating cut so that, in the most simple way, an extremely exact turnover line is achieved following the line of the separating cut of the stiffening strip. The line of weakness can be formed, for example, also by means of `a dot perforation of the stitfening strip or, which is particularly convenient with heavy woollen materials, by means of a small separating excision.

As backing material, a known synthetic material is used which, on heating at a relatively low temperature, melts and thereby becomes adhesive. Such a synthetic material may be ironed on to the woollen material or thelike in a simple way. The Ibond between the stitfening strip and the cloth achieved thereby is sufficiently firm so as to exclude, with certainty, a loosening of the stiftening strip during sewing. In general, the adherent stiifening strip can remain at the turnover position, although it is also possible, if desired, to pull olf the stiffening strip from the material after the finishing of the hem or of the turnover position. Since the thin material preferably used is relatively easily tearable, the subsequent removal of the stiffening strip occasions no particular trouble.

Instead of synthetic material, obviously other substances ycan also be used, e.g. thin cotton fabric or the like, which in this case are stuck to the cloth by means of a special adhesive.

3,451,065 Patented June 24, 1969 ICC Particularly when sewing pockets into items of clothing made of woollen materials, to which the invention is particularly directed, it is recommended to use stitfening strips which have two lines of weakness parallel to one another, between which a median separating cut can be arranged, which lies at that place at which the material is cut for making the pocket opening or has Abeen cut 'before sticking on the stitfening strip. The two parallel lines of weakness, or separating cuts or separating excisions, of the stitfening strip mark the turnover lines at the cut edges of the fabric. In consequence of the diminished stilfness of the cloth at these separating cut or separating excision lines, the folding over of the fabric edge is considerably facilitated.

On the other hand, however, the possibility also exists of using stitfening strips which have lines of weakness or separating cuts or separating excisions only at the two parallel turnover lines, while the intermediate cut line, which indicates the cutting position of the material, is shown merely by a marking of the stiffening strip. In this case, the stiffening strip is not cut until after the adhesion to the cloth.

It is recommended not to carry the separating lines, or the separating excisions in the stiifening strips, without a break over the whole hem or turnover line, but to interrupt at -a few small areas so that points of junction remain at which the material of the stitfening strip remains joined on Iboth sides of the separating cut or of the separating excision. By this means, the continuity of the stiffening strip is preserved and the exact application of the stiiening strip to the cloth is accordingly facilitated.

The stiffening strips according to the invention can be prefabricated rolled up on a roll. They can be used as ready-stamped single parts. The lines of weakness need not, in this case, 4be exactly adjusted to the pocket length, fbut can also exceed the pocket length or be shorter than it.

The invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawings, which show an embodiment of the invention but in no restrictive sense.

FIGURES l, 3 and 5 show plan views on a cloth breadth in which a pocket is sewn in Various stages of manufacture, while FIGURES 2 to 6 exhibit sections along the lines II-II, IV-IV or VI-VL In the drawing, the fabric or cloth breadth is shown by 1 which forms the part of an item of clothing, e.g. of trousers made of a wool fabric.

As FIGURES l and 2 show, a stitfening strip 2 (represented in FIGURE 1 by broken line), which consists of a thin, relatively stift material, is affixed to the back of the fabric at the place at which a pocket is to be sewn. The stitfening strip 2 shows two separating lines 2 and 2" parallel to one another. The separating lines mark those lines at which the fabric edges are to be turned over.

The stilfening strip 2 consists conveniently of a thin synthetic material which is ironed hot on to the cloth breadth 1 and is thus, by slight melting of its surface, affixed to the cloth.

After adhesion of the stiffening strip 2, for formation of the pocket opening, between the separating lines 2 and 2", a separating cut 3 parallelthereto is made and also at the ends thereof in each case a small separating cut 4 running at right angles thereto, wherein these separating cuts cut through both the stifening strip and also the fabric of the cloth.

The separating cuts 3 and 4 can be already present in the stiifening strip 2 before this is affixed to the cloth 1. On the other hand, it is also possible, however, at each place at which the separating cuts are made, to apply marking lines to the stiffening strip which denote those places at which, after the adhesion of the stifening strip, the separating cuts are to Ibe produced.

As FIGURES 3 and 4 show, after the making of the separating cuts 3 and 4, the fabric edges 5 and 6 on both sides of the separating line 3 are folded over inwardly, whereby the bending line exactly follows the course of the separating lines 2 and 2". Thereupon the pocket 7 is sewed in as may be seen from FIGURES 5 land 6. The two members 7 and 7" of the prefabricated pocket lining are backed at the edges with a reinforcing strip -8 or 9 and then, in each case, sewn to the turned over fabric edges 5 and 6.

The separating lines 2 and 2" denoting the bending or turnover lines show small interruptions 2 in order to prevent the fabric edges becoming so far separated from the join with the frame-like edging of the stiffening strip, that on application of the stilfening strip to the cloth, it can slip or shift.

What I claim is:

1. A method for making a turnover on fabric edges of a pocket opening in a garment component and for sewing prefabricated pockets thereto, comprising forming an elongated stitfening strip of a thin synthetic material of a greater length than said desired opening, providing two parallel separating lines on the stiffening strip of the same length as Said opening, adhering the strip to the back of a fabric at the place where the pocket opening is to be with said separating lines equidistant on opposite sides thereof, making an elongated separating cut parallel to the separating lines intermediate said lines and a pair of small separating cuts at the ends of the separating cut, at right angles thereto, through the fabric and said stiffening strip, folding the fabric edges inwardly on both sides of the separating line providing a prefabricated pocket and sewing the free open edges of the pocket to the folded fabric edges by passing thread therethrough.

2. The method as set forth in claim 1, wherein the stifening strip is adhered to the fabric by ironing the strip to the fabric by slight melting of the strips surface by means of -a hot iron.

3. The method according to claim 1, including backing the open edges of the pocket with reinforcing strips prior to sewing the pockets to the folded fabric edges.

4. The method as set forth in claim 1, including forming small interruptions in the separating lines of the stiifening strip, to prevent the fabric edges from slipping or shifting.

5. A stifening device for use on fabrics at pocket openings comprising a substantially flat, rectangular, elongated self-adhering strip of greater length than the pocket opening having a pair of spaced parallel lines of weakness of less length than said strip, lan elongated separating cut of the same length as said lines of weakness, intermediate and parallel to said lines of weakness and a pair of small separating cuts at the ends of said elon- `gated separating cut perpendicular thereto.

6. The stiffening device as set forth in claim 5, wherein said strip is of a plastic material, the surface whereof becomes adherent upon application of heat.

7. The stiffening device as claimed in claim 5, further provided with small interruptions in the separating lines.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 1,945,104 1/1934 Zilinsky.

2,116,008 5/1938 Block.

2,631,947 3/1953 Kline et al. 156-94 X 2,675,560 4/1954 Bufardeci 2--247 X 3,216,024 ll/ 1965 Menhart 2-274 r ALFRED R. GUEST, Primary Examiner. O

U.S. Cl. X.R 

